![]() ![]() If you can, remove not only the dead or decayed branch but also 6 inches of the branch behind it. Again, this can be done at any time of the year and should be done as soon as possible. First, remove all dead, decaying, damaged, and diseased branches.Loppers work well for branches up to 3 inches, while hand held pruning shears are best for small branches less than ½ an inch. Use a pruning pole, chainsaw, or pruning saw for branches larger than 2 or 3 inches in diameter. You may not need all four of the cutting items listed above, but it will depend on the size of your tree and, more specifically, the sizes of the branches. Before pruning your trees, you’ll want to gather a few items: Maple trees should not be pruned before they are three years old, as young saplings are still soft and prone to damage. Regardless of the time of year, it’s a good idea to prune away dead or diseased branches as soon as possible. You may want to try pruning in different seasons to see what works best for you and your trees. The trouble with pruning later in the year is that it may be harder to see which branches should be removed once the tree has leafed out. For this reason, many people prefer to prune their maple trees in late spring or summer, after the sap has stopped flowing. While this generally won’t hurt older trees, younger trees may be stunted by the loss of so much sap. The sap is under pressure inside the wood, so any cut in the wood at this time of year is going to release copious amounts of sap. The problem is that maple trees are producing the greatest amount of sap during late winter and early spring. Some people prune their maples during this season as well. Generally, deciduous trees are pruned during late winter and early spring, before the buds or flowers have begun to open. Pruning isn't the only method of treating trees and shrubs with winter damage.There are disagreements as to when is the best time to prune a maple tree. Treating Trees and Shrubs with Winter Damage Cut back to green wood to ensure that the remaining plant material is alive.This reduces the chance that the weight of the tree will pull the branch down and cause a tear, creating a bigger wound and often exposing the cambium. Make one under the branch, one over it, and then the final cut. Large branches need to be removed with three cuts.Keep cuts outside the trunk by removing outside the branch collar, the bump around the secondary growth where it grows from the parent wood.Make pruning cuts at an angle that reflects moisture away from the cut to reduce the chance of mold or fungal issues.Use sharp tools to avoid further injury to the tree or shrub.These tips will help when pruning cold damaged trees or shrubs becomes inevitable: If more pruning needs to be done, wait until the following spring. ![]() Remove no more than one third of the plant material when pruning winter-damaged trees/shrubs. This is when you can tell whether a branch is still alive or if it requires removal. ![]() All other pruning should wait until the plant is out of dormancy. If there are loose branches, remove them at the time of the injury to avoid hurting passers-by. Cold weather damage to trees and shrubs occurs at many levels. This will give you a chance to observe whether the tree/shrub is in recovery and what, if any, limbs need to be removed. The ideal time for pruning cold damaged plants, including trees and shrubs, is in early spring.
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